Monthly Archives: January 2016

Here is some information from UGA Pecan Horticulturalist Dr. Lenny Wells on pollination considerations at planting:

Historically, pollination has been overlooked when planting pecan orchards. The increased production from having the right pollinators in the right place is not always something we notice unless we have something to compare. The effects of poor pollination are obvious in some years more than others when spring weather conditions disrupt pollination.

I often hear someone say, “There are plenty of seedlings scattered around near my orchard to pollinate my trees.” Just because other pecan trees are around does not mean they are pollinating the trees in a particular orchard. In order to get effective pollination, the female flowers in an orchard must be receptive to pollen from another tree at the time other trees are releasing pollen. Pecan trees will self pollinate; however, a large percentage of these nuts fail to develop, abort, drop off, or fill poorly.

Pollinators must also to be in the right place. Research has shown that pecan trees need a pollinator within 150 feet. This is why we recommend placing a pollinator at every 5th tree on every 5th row if you prefer planting a solid block of one cultivar. On the other hand, if you block multiple cultivars in an orchard, change cultivars about every 4 rows. Pecan trees usually release pollen for 5-6 day,s and female flowers may only be receptive for as little as 4 days. Just a few days of the wrong weather conditions can wreak havoc if we have just a couple of cultivars in the orchard.  This is why we recommend planting at least 3 cultivars in an orchard when possible. The greater the diversity of cultivars, the more we spread the risk.

Click on the pollination chart here to see which cultivars serve as pollinators for each other.

For many things related to pecan production, UGA Extension Horticulturalist Dr. Lenny Wells says there are almost as many opinions about how to do something as there are people to ask. When you get varying opinions on a subject, the thing to do is look at the science behind it. Is there data to back up the practice in question or is this just the way we always did it? One practice with lots of varied opinion is the pruning of pecan trees at planting:

When growers purchase trees and plant them, the thought of cutting off a portion of these trees causes them to shudder. This reaction is easily understood. I have read lots of scientific papers on pecans, including many on tree planting techniques. I have planted thousands of nursery trees, some pruned and some not pruned. Based on both scientific results and practical experience, I can tell you without question, that if you do not prune the tree at planting you are doing that tree and yourself a grave disservice.

As trees are dug from the nursery, they lose a portion of their root system and undergo what we term “transplant shock” as they are removed from one soil environment to another. Pruning the top of the tree by 1/4 to 1/3 alleviates the stress this generates and allows the root system to support the growth that tree puts on. There is nothing magical about 1/3 or 1/4. It just depends on the tree. You may need to remove as much as 1/2 of a 10-12′ tree at planting. The tree then puts its energy into developing strong, new shoots as opposed to just trying to keep itself alive. The result is a much more vigorous tree. By contrast, trees that are not pruned at planting usually take longer to begin growing and develop multiple weak, short, shoots as it struggles to survive.

We used to recommend (and many growers still follow) the practice of pruning no more of the root system than you have to in order to get the tree in the hole. But, based on research by Dr. Mike Smith at Oklahoma State, we’ve changed that recommendation. For several years now, we have promoted the pruning of roots at planting. “Pruning of roots?”, you say. “Didn’t you just say the tree loses some roots at planting”? Yes, I did. But, that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

When you prune a tree, whether the cut is on the stem or on the root, you stimulate growth. Pecan trees will grow without pruning the roots at planting, but Dr. Smith’s work showed that when you prune the taproot to 18″-24″ and remove the lateral roots (at least by 1/2 the length), the tree is more vigorous and grows much better. The reason is that the tree’s new roots develop from the cut surface. And tree survival & growth depends on new root development, not the existing root system. This also allows you to dig a smaller hole (no more than 24″ deep). When you prune the roots, pruning the top of the tree becomes even more important because you are removing more of the root system. The goal is to stimulate growth and relieve stress. Planting by proven methods such as these will do a lot more for getting pecan trees off to a good start than any fertilizer or “miracle” snake oil product you can use.